CLIMBING AROUND BRIANÇON
Right in the heart of the Southern Alps, the Briançon area is a true paradise for all kinds of climbing. From famous bouldering spots like Ailefroide to (very) long multi-pitch routes like the South Pillar of the Écrins, there’s something for everyone.
For guidance, the Cambon guidebooks are the go-to reference. So far, only the volume on the Ailefroide valley is available in digital format.
The digital guidebook CLIMBING AROUND AILEFROIDE
This is the digital version of the “Ailefroide Bible.”
It features 330 single-pitch sport routes spread across around fifteen crags, and 190 multi-pitch routes, most of which are fully bolted.
All single-pitch and multi-pitch routes are clearly drawn on photos.
The multi-pitch routes include an overview and brief pitch-by-pitch descriptions.
The approaches are clearly described using maps and illustrated photos – getting lost is no longer an option, so all that’s left is to enjoy the climbing!
This guidebook is produced by the Topos Cambon association. All profits go directly to bolting and rebolting routes in the valley.
For more details: see the INFO PAGES
To view the contents: go to the DIGITAL GUIDEBOOK
THE BRIANÇON AREA
Thanks to a mostly dry and sunny climate (Briançon is known for over 300 days of sunshine a year) and a wide range of altitudes, you can climb all year round in excellent conditions.
Each valley has its own type of rock, shaping its unique climbing style.
Ailefroide is famous for its granite slabs and long, fully bolted routes in a high-mountain setting.
The Clarée Valley offers beautiful sport crags on perfect limestone, in a peaceful and green landscape.
For fans of multi-pitch routes, the Montbrisson area (Tête d’Aval, Tenailles de Montbrisson…) and the Cerces massif are must-visits.
Higher up, you cross into more alpine terrain, with the Écrins massif home to many of the great classic alpine climbs.
Beyond climbing, the Briançon area is also ideal for other mountain sports depending on the season – ski touring, mountaineering, hiking, via ferrata, and more.
So… when are you moving here?
Jean-Michel Cambon – A Key Figure in Climbing in the Region
Jean-Michel Cambon was a major contributor to the development of climbing in the area. His journey began in the 1970s, with a clear focus on the high mountain faces of the Écrins massif. Over time, his focus gradually shifted to lower elevations. The 1990s and the arrival of battery-powered drills marked the start of a new mission: climbing for everyone, through the creation of fully bolted and cleaned routes, often at a moderate grade.
In addition to his countless new routes, he was the author of an impressive library of thoroughly documented and regularly updated guidebooks. These are the well-known Oisans Nouveau – Oisans Sauvage series (often simply called the Cambon topos). As the number of routes grew, the series expanded and now consists of four volumes.
More than just guidebooks, these topos are real reads – full of stories, biting humour, and sharp commentary. They’re tributes to friendship and self-mockery.
On March 12th, 2020, Death and JMC met at the base of a cliff in the Drac valley. His family and friends have carried on his legacy through the ONOS and Topos Cambon associations, continuing his work as both route developer and author.
THE AILEFROIDE VALLEY
The Ailefroide hamlet – the perfect basecamp
The Ailefroide valley is a main gateway to the Écrins National Park. It’s the starting point for many classic alpine routes, like the Barre and Dôme des Écrins or the Pelvoux traverse. But for us, Ailefroide is above all a summer climber’s paradise, offering both sport crags and multi-pitch routes in a cool, high-mountain setting.
The hamlet sits at the confluence of the Celse-Nière and Saint Pierre valleys, providing four different aspects – more than enough to choose between sun and shade as you like.
For accommodation, the municipal campsite is the go-to option (clearly visible at the bottom of the photo).
There’s no need to book a place, just find a spot in the open meadows along the Celse-Nière stream or in the nearby forest.
Once the tent or camper van is set up, a peaceful rhythm begins – nearly all the crags are within walking distance.
And at “apéro” time, climbers gather to recap the day and comment on the late teams still battling it out on La Fissure or La Snoopy routes, just in front of you.
Climbing in Ailefroide
Whether you’re climbing on sport crags or tackling long multi-pitch routes, granite slabs define the style here.
A huge thank you goes to the local guides and a group of dedicated enthusiasts who work tirelessly behind the scenes – maintaining existing routes, re-bolting, and regularly uncovering new lines.
These unsung heroes truly deserve a medal… though they’d never ask for one.
The crags
Around 350 single-pitch sport routes are spread across about fifteen sectors spread around the Ailefroide hamlet. The approach never takes more than 15 to 20 minutes.
The climbing is mostly on beautiful granite slabs, requiring good technical footwork. You’ll also find some cracks and even a few steep or overhanging lines – especially at higher grades – but even then, technique is essential.
If you’re all about brute strength or allergic to delicate footwork, this probably isn’t your ideal crag… best look for something on limestone.
As for difficulty, unless you’re climbing well above 8b, there’s something here for everyone – especially for modest or less brute-strength climbers.
Multi-pitch routes
The real climbing boom in Ailefroide began in the 1990s, thanks to Jean-Michel Cambon & co. Armed with the then-revolutionary battery-powered drill, they established beautiful long slab routes in compact granite – fully bolted lines that built the valley’s reputation. Once the bolts were in, the real work began brushing, scraping, sweeping, digging, trimming… Slabby terrain has always been a botanist’s paradise!
As you might have guessed, slab climbing dominates here too – even though the area’s most famous route is called La Fissure d’Ailefroide! (the Ailefroide crack!) That said, you’ll still come across a few cracks here and there.
Grades
5c/6a oblig. isn’t a rule set in stone- but it definitely dominates. A mix of geological mystery and (perhaps not-so-random) bolting – the number of routes at grade 5c or 6a obligatory is astonishing. Fortunately, that’s right in the sweet spot for a huge portion of the climbing community. You’ll also find some harder climbs, and even a few trad or mixed routes here and there.
Bouldering
Ailefroide is one of the most important bouldering areas in France.
It offers problems ranging from grade 3 up to 8B, and the number of established problems keeps growing thanks to the energy and commitment of local climbers.
Note: two children’s circuits have been recently created.
Most of the boulders are within walking distance from the campsite. Some require a bit more hiking, heading up the valley towards Pré de Madame Carle.
The problems are generally technical, on small edges, with many rather comfortable landings.
To inspire you, here are the 10 must-do boulders according to Grimper magazine (in French).
Bouldering Guidebooks
A very comprehensive guidebook, published in 2024, covers the Ailefroide valleys and Entraygues. It is available in all local specialist shops and online (in french only).
There is also a partial guide available for free, published by Nicolas Bergasse on the ONOS association’s website: HERE.
And the Facebook page Ailefroide Bouldering for news and much more.
When to Climb in Ailefroide?
Ailefroide is located at 1500m altitude, and the road leading to the hamlet from the Pelvoux village is closed during winter. It usually reopens around mid-April, depending on conditions.
Climbing is then pleasant on the sunny slopes, free of snow – but at this time, there are more skiers than climbers.
In summer, depending on the temperature, you can choose between shade and sun thanks to the many different orientations.
The autumn is particularly nice, with calm returning and mild, pleasant days. However, there is less sunlight because the sun plays hide-and-seek with the surrounding high peaks.
During this time, you’ll also need to share some areas with hunters.
Winter is a bit less pleasant — see the photo.
It happens at Ailefroide…
Les Prédateurs route, 300m, 5c oblig.
An aesthetic and varied climb in the Palavar sector.
La Fissure d’Ailefroide. A big classic that’s nothing like the local style: it’s trad climbing and chimneying!
An episode of Hidden Gems: Seb Bouin climbs Crotte de Geek (9a) on the steep wall of Fesse Bouc.
Ailefroide is also one of the best bouldering spots… but it’s worth waiting for a more pleasant season.
Explore the crags in the neighborhood
Here are somme digital guidebooks for climbing in the surroundings areas.
To see all the guidebooks available on the OmegaRoc app: The OmegaRoc guidebooks
Acknowledgments:
Thanks to Rogier Van Rijn, Arthur Delicque and Blandine Reynaud for allowing us to use their photos to illustrate this page.