Red Rocks – Zion – The OmegaRoc Digital Climbing Guide
This digital climbing guide offers a selection of 27 multi-pitch routes spread across the Red Rocks and Zion National Parks. The selection is taken from the Rock around the World guidebook.
The highly sculpted sandstone of Red Rocks provides climbing on steep walls at reasonable grade. The protection is good and fairly easy to place.
Required level: 6a on trad gear.
At Zion, the rock is more compact, and climbing is more demanding along cracks and steep walls. It is essential to master jamming techniques.
Required level: 6b on trad gear.
See the digital guide for Red Rocks – Zion
See the guidebook (hard copy) Rock around the World
Other useful guidebooks:
Red Rocks, a Climber’s Guide(Jerry Handren, 2016). 2nd edition, a comprehensive and well-made topo of the entire Red Rocks park.
Rock Climbing Utah, a Falcon Guide (Stewart Green, 2012). A selection of routes across Utah, great for a long rock trip.
Red Rocks Climbing, SuperTopo (Greg Barnes, 2004). A selection of routes.
Zion Climbing, SuperTopo (Bryan Bird, 2009). A selection of routes.
Mountain project:A description of numerous routes contributed by climbers themselves: Red Rocks – Zion (Available for Red Rocks and Zion, also as a free app that works offline).
The American grading system
It is divided into 5 “classes”: 1st class for basic walking, 2nd class for sections that require the use of hands, 3rd and 4th class for easy, and more or less exposed, climbing, and lastly 5th class for technical free climbing.
Within the 5th class, a second number and letters (from a to d) are used to express increments of difficulty. For example, 5.10c (sometimes replaced by 5.10+) is equivalent to 6b/6b+ (see the conversion chart).
For European climbers, this conversion chart should be used with caution. While it is reliable for conventional climbing styles such as slab, walls, and overhangs, it can be surprising when it comes to more specific types of climbing, particularly crack climbing, squeeze chimneys, and off-width cracks, which may seem significantly undergraded. For this reason, the Red Rocks-Zion guidebook uses the American grading system.
Sandstone, a sometimes fragile rock:
Both Zion and Red Rocks have sandstone rock formations. Sandstone is a porous rock that absorbs water when it rains, making it very brittle. It is essential to wait for the rock to dry thoroughly before climbing again. This process can take two to three days after the rain has stopped, depending on the amount of sunlight and wind.
Zion – Shunes Buttress – 5 11c
Thierry Souchard climb the superb but demanding crack of P6
Favourable seasons:
Spring (mid-March to mid-May) is the ideal period with longer daylight hours. Autumn, starting from early October, is also very pleasant, but the shorter days require approaches (and often returns) with headlamps for longer routes.
Considering that it is hotter at Red Rocks than at Zion, it is recommended to begin the trip with Zion in the autumn or Red Rocks in the spring.
Summer heat is unbearable.
In winter, it is enjoyable to climb on the sunny walls at Red Rocks, while winters at Zion are much harsher.
Note: Both parks are located in a desert environment with significant temperature variations between night and day.
In-situ equipment
It is usually limited to a few bolts and peg-bolts. However, in a few classic routes (like Crimson Chrysalis), you may still encounter original bolts with a very small diameter that may not be particularly reassuring!
The abseil lines are generally equipped with slings and maillons, but it is always useful to carry a piece of cord just in case.
Recommended gear to bring
15 quickdraws (including 5 extendable ones), 6 slings (120cm), a set of nuts and a set of friends ranging from #0.1 to #5 (Camalot sizes) will allow you to climb many routes in the selection.
However, several routes may require additional gear: double up on friends from #0.2 to #4. For comprehensive coverage, consider tripling friends from #0.2 to #3 and bringing a size #6 cam.
Ropes: American climbers often use a 60m or even a 70m rope length, and several abseil lines are equipped accordingly. However, for the routes in this guide, a 2x50m rope is sufficient. The majority of the described routes are well-suited for single-rope climbing, using a Trail Line or equivalent for the abseils. It depends on individual preferences, as climbing with a single rope may require longer quickdraws to avoid rope drag.
Don’t forget the essential crack gloves (which can also be made using tape).
Lastly, opt for comfortable climbing shoes and flexible approach shoes.
Climbing at Red Rocks:
Located just west of Las Vegas, the Red Rocks mountain range emerges from the desert. These towering walls reach up to 600m in height. They consist of alternating layers of red, black, and white sandstone, making it a true paradise for multi-pitch climbing that is still relatively unknown to Europeans! There are also bouldering areas at the entrance of different canyons and beautiful single-pitch routes, particularly in the Calico Basin at the entrance of the conservation area.
The majority of the cliffs are within the Red Rocks National Park. The best source of information regarding hours, specific regulations, and more can be found on the park’s website.
The Rock
The rock at Red Rocks is solid sandstone, often covered with a black and glossy coating (called “desert vanish”). When this layer is eroded, a very light and softer sandstone is revealed. But most importantly, this superficial dark layer forms hook-like scales, allowing for climbing on steep walls at reasonable grade.
The climbing here is much more diverse than the demanding granite of Yosemite. At Red Rocks, climbers can choose between pure crack lines, more traditional routes that can be protected with gear, and even some fully bolted routes, depending on their preferences or abilities. Thanks to the quality of the rock and the steepness of the cliffs, many very easy routes are particularly aesthetic and highly recommended.
Red Rocks is also characterized by the typical desert environment of the American West, with the distant and unusual silhouettes of the Las Vegas casinos visible from the top of the routes.
Access to the Routes
Access to the different parking areas is by car. Be aware that for the parking areas within the park, you need to follow the Scenic Drive. This one-way road is open from 6 AM to 8 PM in September, from 6 AM to 7 PM in October, and from 6 AM to 5 PM from November to February. If you plan to return late or bivouac on the wall, it is necessary to obtain prior permission. There seems to be some flexibility with the operating hours, and it is still possible to exit the Loop after closing time (anti-return gates).
Accomodation
All types of accommodation are available in Las Vegas, including a comfortable youth hostel. Be cautious of cheap hotels as there may be a possibility of bed bugs. Renting an apartment is also an interesting option.
In the immediate vicinity of Red Rocks, the BLM campground is a pleasant place with basic amenities such as toilets and drinking water, but no showers. It has 50 campsites. The cost is $33 per night per campsite, with a maximum of 10 people (as of 2025).
There is also a separate area reserved for tents only (not accessible to vehicles, which must be parked at the entrance. the cost is $20 per night.
Each campsite has a table and a fire-barbecue pit, and several sites also have a simple shelter that is useful for protection from the sun or rain (although rainfall is rare). For more information and reservations, visit their website: HERE
Finally, Bonnie Springs is a nice place near the park to have a drink, eat, or even stay overnight. It is located on Route 159, 7 miles after the entrance of the Loop.
Climbing in Zion
In contrast to Red Rocks, where you can get lost in wild and isolated canyons, Zion is a heavily visited park known for its numerous hikes on well-maintained trails. Fortunately, cars are prohibited in the canyon (except during winter), and access is provided by free shuttle buses. This helps maintain a relatively peaceful atmosphere despite the high number of visitors in certain areas.
In terms of climbing, the towering walls on both sides of the Virgin River are impressively steep. Therefore, Zion is primarily known for its difficult aid and free climbing routs, such as the iconic Moonlight Buttress. However, there are also several beautiful and relatively accessible free-climbing routes, as well as areas with “short” multi-pitch routes that are also interesting. The required level is more demanding than at Red Rocks, starting at 5.9+, and the routes generally require some experience with crack climbing. The sandier nature of the sandstone in Zion compared to Red Rocks is quickly forgotten in light of the exceptional environment and aesthetic lines.
Note: There are several small crag sectors in Zion where climbers can practice the specific techniques of crack climbing.
For detailed information about the shuttle system, regulations, and more, please visit the park’s website.
The rock
One is immediately struck by the richness of colours in the sandstone (Navajo sandstone) in Zion Canyon. It ranges from dark red at the bottom to creamy white on the upper part of the cliffs. This incredible variation is primarily due to the amount of iron present in the rock.
The sandstone in Zion is quite compact, with long systems of cracks, flakes, and dihedrals. The surface is often eroded with wavy patterns and more or less pronounced pockets, which allows for a variety of climbing styles beyond pure crack climbing like in Indian Creek.
The rock can vary in its “sandiness” texture depending on the location.
Access to the Routes
Access to the park is prohibited for cars (except in winter). An efficient shuttle bus system has been implemented to reach different points in the canyon.
Good to know: climbers can get on and off the bus at any point. Just ask the driver.
In the case of early morning departures, access to the park by car is possible (request a permit at the Visitor Center).
Accomodation etc…
For camping, there are several RV parks in Springdale primarily designed for camping-cars, but tents are also accepted. In the park, the Watchman Campground requires reservations several months in advance. The South Campground (closed in 2025 for complete renovation) operates on a first-come, first-served basis. To secure a spot, it’s recommended to arrive early in the morning and wait in line, hoping to be assigned a site by a ranger based on arrival order. The restroom facilities have sinks and running water. Like all American campgrounds, each site includes a table and a fire barbecue pit.
All necessary shops can be found in Springdale, but they can be quite expensive. Alternatively, there is a small supermarket near the gas station in La Verkin (around 19 miles from Zion).
Showers are available at Zion Outfitter in Springdale. Another option is the pool at the Visitor Center.
It happened at Red rocks and Zion…
Alex Honnold and Magnus Mitbø free solo an accessible route at Red Rocks — a great introduction to the area’s unique rock.
The classic route Epinephrine and its famous chimneys. Only graded 5.9!
The unmissable Moonlight Buttress — Katie and Eddie free climb this route, which is usually tackled as an aid climb.
General information
Updated in 2025
Language : English (a large part of the population also speaks or understands Spanish).
Currency: US Dollar (USD). 1 USD is approximately 0.93 € (March 2025).
Time Zone : UTC-7 (Zion) or UTC-8 (Red Rocks).
Electricity: 110V AC
Petites bêtes : Some snakes and spiders are dangerous (but rare).
Water consumption : Tap water is drinkable.
Emergency services : 911
How to get to Red Rocks and Zion
Red Rocks is located near Las Vegas, Nevada.
Zion is in Utah, near Springdale (about 160 miles northwest of Las Vegas).
Flights: Direct flights to Las Vegas from Europe take around 12–13 hours, starting at approximately €800.
Transportation to the climbing sites
A car/van is essential for any climbing trip to Red Rocks and Zion. Renting from an international company (via the internet) ensures you have the minimum required insurance.
Renting a camper van can also be a good option, though you will still need to stay in campgrounds (Jucy, Campervan, or the cheapest option, Lost Campers).
Other Climbing Destinations
Here are some digital OmegaRoc guidebooks to explore climbing around the world.
All available guidebooks on the OmegaRoc app can be found here: OmegaRoc Guidebooks
Grade conversion chart
