Climbing in Saône-et-Loire
In the hills and vineyards of Bourgogne (Burgundy), the cliffs of Saône-et-Loire offer a peaceful and scenic place to climb. Many crags are perfect for family outings, while others feature more challenging sectors with a wide range of styles for experienced climbers.
The digital guide Escalade en Saône-et-Loire
See the guidebook on the OmegaRoc app
In recent years, the climbing sites of Saône-et-Loire have been given a new lease on life thanks to the energy and dedication of local clubs and the regional FFME committee (the local branch of the national climbing federation).
This digital guide, based on the printed version of Climbing in Saône-et-Loire, is the result of that impressive work. It includes all the crags in the area, as well as two bouldering sites.
Each sector is shown on a photo with clear, and precise route lines. The approaches are illustrated with panoramic images and detailed sketches to help you find your way easily.
The guide is produced by the FFME Territorial Committee for Saône-et-Loire (71), which works with local climbing clubs to maintain the crags.
All profits from the guide go directly back into maintaining and developing climbing sites in the region.
Climbing in Saône-et-Loire: A playground of Nature and Heritage
Best known for its world-famous vineyards, Saône-et-Loire is also an interesting spot for climbing, with several outstanding crags. Most of the cliffs are limestone, but you’ll also find a few granite areas in the north of the region.
And after climbing, there’s no shortage of things to do, from outdoor activities to cultural visits, not to mention the region’s wine and food, which are an experience in themselves.
As André Accary, president of the department, puts it:
“In Saône-et-Loire, we don’t have the sea or the mountains, but we love to make the most of everything else — the rich heritage that makes our region a unique playground for adventure, discovery, and enjoyment!”
The main cliffs of the region
La roche de Vergisson
Vergisson is the crag for climbers from the Mâconnais area – but not just them. You’ll often meet climbers from Lyon and even further, all drawn by the unique character of this cliff.
The striking band of ochre and white limestone rises steeply above the vineyard-covered slopes. It’s visible from miles away, and once you’re on it, the views stretch just as far. On a clear, haze-free day, if you look due east, you can even spot Mont Blanc rising above the Jura and the Prealps. Absolutely stunning!
La Roche de Solutré
This impressive rocky prow suddenly rises up and offers amazing views from the top — you can see the Saône Valley, the vineyards and hedges of the Mâconnais hills, and to the south, the gentle hills of the Beaujolais. Climbers visiting the area should definitely stop here.
Climbing here tends to be fairly steep, even on the easier routes, and because of the regular limestone layering, it’s rarely sustained. Some lines are a bit polished, but nothing too severe compared to other “historic” cliffs in France and Bourgogne.
As for the rock itself, it’s not perfect everywhere, but there are many beautiful compact and sculpted sections. Expect steepness and height (up to 30 meters), with climbing that’s rarely monotonous: walls, dihedrals, overhangs, roofs — and even a chimney. The range of grades is broad, from 4 to 8a, making it a place where beginners can rub shoulders with experienced climbers.
La Grisière
This family-friendly cliff faces mostly north and is very popular with locals from Mâcon and nearby climbing clubs as soon as the weather warms up. It’s easy and quick to reach, and the base of the climbs is comfortable, making it a great spot for a family climbing and picnic outing.
The climbing is varied, with slabs as well as steeper, more sculpted routes. The bolts are usually close, allowing most climbers to lead safely.
Le Mont Rome
Le Mont Rome is a unique climbing site made up of a jumble of boulders. The different sectors face various directions and have different steepness. Because of this, it’s often compared (to some extent) to Frankenjura.
There are now over 100 routes ranging from easy (3a) to very hard (8), including slabs, vertical walls, north-facing routes for summer, and steep overhangs at 45°. In short, there’s something for everyone, and you can climb here almost all year round.
The routes are usually short, often require finger strength, and can be tricky. They need good route reading skills if you want to send them on-sight.
Remigny
This old quarry is now one of the most popular climbing spots in the region. When the weather is nice, Remigny welcomes climbers from all over, and on some long weekends, it’s completely full. People from Bourgogne, Paris, Germany, and England love this place because it’s both family-friendly (easy access and routes for all levels) and also very challenging with its overhangs.
The base of the climbs is very comfortable, and there is almost no approach walk to reach the routes.
Climbing on the three slab faces is mostly easy, but some top sections can be tricky. On the other hand, the overhanging areas are much harder (up to 8a) and require powerful lock-offs, good foot placement, and endurance.
Explore the crags in the neighborhood
A quick look at some climbing spots in the region…
La Roche de Vergisson
La Roche de Solutré
La Grisière
Mont Rome
Find more sites on the FFME 71 Committee YouTube channel.
Explore the crags in the neighborhood
Here are somme digital guidebooks for climbing in the surroundings areas.
To see all the guidebooks available on the OmegaRoc app: The OmegaRoc guidebooks
Acknowledgments:
Thank you to Seb Geo for allowing us to use his photos to illustrate this internet page.